Woodworking Shopnotes 074 - Extendable Drill Press Table

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ParkisKennedy Bristol. E-mall; wwwfisch-wmdworking. I,; fisdlusa pulsenet. Sands all sftapee and contouts Threerotatingsandingdiscs wrap flat and concave and hug convex, surfaceslike no flat sandercan. I couldnt do without this knock-down standfor mybenchtop tools and made fromin.

It's into baseboardsand a in. Cut 3i4-in. Slide checkthat the bottom sits level on the floor. Add leveling feet,if necessary. Secure with screwsrun through pocket holes in eachblock. Youcan designa table to suit your just be surethe needs; baseis wide enough to be stable. Precise finglertip oontrol The 3D sander'scompact in your designfits comfortably palmfor one-hand operation.

Turnthe dial to adjustsanding speedsof to rpm. By GeorgeVondriska his storyis a compilation of the techniquesI've taughtfor I've tried plenty of years itt -y cabinetmaking classes.

I guaranteethat evenif you've never made a door before,you can follow thesestepsand get perfect results. Wdll cover router bit selection,jigs to make machining easier, start-to-finish setup stepsand sometips to help you avoid the most common mistakes. Parts of a Door The frame of a door is made up of the rails and the stiles see Anatomyof a Doot atleft. The frame surroundsthe panel.

A panel made from thicker solid wood with an edge shapedto fit into the rails and stiles is called a raised panel. Router Bit Selection I recommend two-piecematchedbit setsfor machining the rails and stiles,andback cuttingbits for making the panel. This contrastswith reversiblecutters, which have one arbor and removable cutters. Anatomy of a Door A door frame is made of rails 4nd stiles.

Railsare horizontal,stiles are vertical like stila. Railstypically butt into stiles.

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The frame surrounds a wood piece with its edgesshaped to fit into the rails and stiles. Thispiece is the raised panel. The end-grain cutter is used F on the railsto produce a tongue. Use a permanent marker to label you'll this bit with a " 1,"because use it first. The big advantagewith matched sets is that all the frame parts are machined face down on the router table. With reversible bits, on the other hand,onepartis machinedfacedown and the other faceup.

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This canleadto rails and stilesnotlining upverywell, due to inconsistentmaterial thickness. When it comes to panel raising, I swearbyback-cutting panel raisers. Thesebits shapethg panel front and back at the same time, giving you a perfectly fitting tongue every ttne Photo C, below left.


When using panel raiserswithout a back cutter, it's possibleto end up with a tongue that's too thick or too thin for the groove. That cannot happenwith the back cutters. Routers and Tables A L-ll2 hp or larger router is sufficient for the end-grain and long-grain cutters. Typically, thesebits are about in. The panel-raiser bit is anotherstory. You need a largerouter, at least2hp, and you must slow down the rpm.

Thesebigboys shouldrlt exceed 10, rpm. All of thesebits require a router with a ll2-in. AW 85,February A router tablewith a rigid fenceis a must for frame-and-paneldoors. You'll appreciatea fencethat offers dust collection,because these bits makea mess!


And dont forgetto wearhearingprotectionwheneveryou'reusing a router. A Sled for Safety p The long-grain cutter is used on Y all the part5 to make the groove that receivesthe rail tongue and the panel. Labelthis bit"Zl' because it's the second cut. Begin by routing the end grain of the rails.

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Here'sa trick to help you rememberto make the raits beforethe stiles:"R" comes before "S" in the alphabet! Only the rails get the end-graincut. Set the height of the end-grain cutter with a test piece in the sled. Set it by eye, shooting for the profile shown in PhotoA, page Note that the top of the cutter is even with the top of the wood.

This is a good starting point. You can fine-tune the height after makint your test cuts. Position the fence so it is flush with the ball bearingon the bit.

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Bridge a straightedge across the fence opening so the straightedgetouches both the ball bearingand the fence face. Cut a test piece. Dont cut all the way through the test piece and into the sled backer until the bit height is correct see Photo 4. When you ser the bit height for the next project use the profile cut into the backer as a gaugefor the bit.

Thanks to the pil. I Make your first frame-and-panel door from inexpensive, easy-to-handle wood like poplar. Savethe correctly,machinedparts as set-up reminders and gaugeblocks for your next door. I Make some iust-in-casepiecesas you make your frame parts. I Check the door for squarewhile the glue is wet.

I Prefinishthe panel before assembling the door. Check your work. The heightof the router bit determinesthe depth of the shoulderand the thickness of the lip. The lip should be about half as thick as the depth of the shoulder. Dont move on to cuttingyour frame piecesuntil this setting is correct. Rout all the rails, alwayskeepingthe back of the boardsup. A mark on the back of the frame parts will help you keep track.

Rotate the rail to machine the oppositeend. Use consistent pressureon the sled so the end-grain cuts are uniform. Well, here's a good-for-nothing rail! You can avoid this mistake by taking the time to mark the bocksof all your parts before heading to the router table.

All the routing is done with the back sidesup, so you should alwaysbe able to see your marks. The insideedges of the rails and stiles receivethis profile. Set the height of the long-graincutter using one of your correctly machinedrails.